Concerning a flight, a love motel, and a very bright city.

Well, I made it. After an 11 hour flight that passed surprisingly quickly (save the freakishly active one year old to my left and lack of personal TV), Asteria and I stepped off the plane and promptly melted in the Korean humidity. The airport itself was very orderly and logical, it was the people that defied convention and took offense at the bare idea of a patient line. After fighting tooth and nail for bus tickets, I ate my 15 hour old meatloaf sandwich (actually pretty good if somewhat...aesthetically compromised) and we started the trip to Daejeon. Worn to sheer exhaustion, we both accidentally fell asleep but still made our stop just fine where we were picked up by our two bosses. The instructions sent to us by the school were detailed enough that the whole process was pretty painless.

We settled into the cheap motel that is home until wednesday (when we get to move into our apartment) and passed out. Next morning, we went to lunch with the academic director, a ridiculously kind-hearted woman in her thirties, and tried spring chicken stew. It is Korean belief that the only remedy for heat is...more heat. I was sweating before the meal and mostly liquid by the time it was done. Objectively, it tasted fine and I would have it again but it will take me a time to click into Korean flavors. It has been the hardest thing for me so far. That night, the current teachers came to take us newbies out for Korean BBQ and it was a really really nice time. They all seemed very happy with their experiences and gave us some advice for the coming months. The BBQ itself was incredibly ornate- even if I am not used to the flavors, I certainly appreciate the effort that must go into making the 5-15 side dishes that seem mandatory here. I had the famed kimchi- kind of anticlimactic, really what it sounds like. Spicy pickled cabbage. I also found out that night that Asteria and my apartment is apparently the 'mansion' of the lot, including 2 bedrooms, a little office, a living room big enough to accommodate not one but two sofas and...get this...a bath tub. We have been told this is the culmination of Asian luxury, so I am understandably excited to move in and settle.

That night of sleep abruptly ended at 4 AM when jet lag kicked in, and I stumbled my way in the morning to the hospital for our swine flu tests. The manager of the school drove us, (similarly kind and a bit shy) and we picked up cell phones. Handy. After a lunch of the weirdest pizza I have ever had (cheese ball things on the crust, corn, mango, pepper, onion, what we think to be ham, and a sweet potato paste served with corn on the cob on the side) we met the academic director at this beautiful coffee shop overlooking the whole city. Over some delicious kiwi juice, we went over an overview of the different programs available in the school. Tomorrow, we actually start observing which will be a lot more helpful. The kids sound pretty darn cute though so I am looking forward to it a lot. After the coffee, I had the best sushi I've ever had and an early bed. This morning we had our comprehensive medical exams which was more like a circus than an appointment; Asteria, another new teacher, and I were herded around to different stations like cattle taking our charts ever which way and laughing to each other in passing. We had bibimbop (spicy spicy rice with vegetables that I had with shrimp- yummy, kind of a Korean stir fry or pad thai) to make up for losing 3 vials of blood on no food or liquids since last night and here we are.

Over all, I think things have started well. I did the vast majority of my freaking out before I left (only my immediate family know how thoroughly) so I feel pretty at peace with my decision. I have not felt the excited mania that I did in England fairly salivating over every "cheers", but I'm happy to discover the quirks of Daejeon. So far: I know it is a cliche, but my god is it bright. I am shocked that we can see nocturnal pictures from space of American lights because I would expect them to be completely eclipsed by Asia's overwhelming glow. They seem to have a monopoly on all things neon and cartoon and the senses most definitely reel. Everyone carries an umbrella all the time, because heaven forbid an Asian be wet or tanned. They actually have whitening skin products just like we have self-tanners. Cultural conventions never cease to amaze.

Last thing before I close the first of many novels that I am sure will follow, etiquette. We are learning how to blend in a little more but it does not come automatically. Take everything with two hands, but if it is with one, under no circumstances should it be the left. Never fill your own water glass. Don't make excessive eye contact with an elder. NEVER ever give things in increments of 4, it's even worse luck than 13. I am sure I'll be adding to this list as I go. That's it for now, next up: seeing the school, going to a party at our apartment on saturday, and hopefully a few touristy things over the weekend like the hot springs. Love everyone!